Browse our collection and, among the Italians and Spaniards, you will spot two bottles from an unexpected corner: Moldova. Both come from the same house, Gitana Winery, a family estate in the far south of the country. We have already written about the Saperavi grape. This time it is about the winery itself: who is behind Gitana, where the vineyards lie, and why we import exactly these two wines.
A family estate in southern Moldova
Gitana Winery is the estate of the Dulgher family, based in the far south of Moldova, in the Cahul region. After Moldova gained independence in the early nineties, the family was among the first to build a private winery of their own. That was far from obvious at the time: for decades Moldovan winemaking was about volume for the Soviet market, not about labels and personal style.
The Dulgher family chose a different path. Their own vineyards, manageable volumes, and the patience a serious red wine demands. Today Gitana counts among the country's leading quality houses, and stands as a fine example of the new generation of Moldovan winemakers putting quality before quantity.
Valul lui Traian: vineyards with Roman roots
Gitana's vineyards lie in Valul lui Traian, the protected wine region in the southwest of Moldova. The name literally means "Trajan's Wall", after the ancient earthen defence walls that still run through the landscape and are traditionally attributed to the Roman emperor. In this part of the world, wine and history are never far apart.
The climate is warm and continental, tempered by the nearby Black Sea. Long sunny summers and a mild autumn give the grapes all the time they need to ripen fully, while gentle hills and fertile black earth bring concentration and depth. Exactly the conditions behind the sturdy reds that are quietly earning Moldova a name.
Gitana Saperavi: the character of the house
The Gitana Saperavi (€39.95) is made from one hundred percent Saperavi, the originally Georgian grape that found a second home in Moldova. Deep ruby in the glass, dark cherry, cedar and a hint of mint on the nose, black fruit, pepper and liquorice on the palate. Velvety and firm at the same time.
We wrote a full article about this remarkable grape, and why the wine won us over instantly: Moldovan Wine: Eastern Europe's Best-Kept Secret. Everything about its taste, serving and cellaring is on our Saperavi grape page.
Gitana Lupi Rezerva: the flagship
The Gitana Lupi Rezerva 2018 (€59.95) is the most powerful bottle we carry from Moldova. Lupi means "wolves" in Romanian, the language of Moldova. The wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Saperavi: two international grapes for structure and suppleness, completed by Saperavi for its deep colour and unmistakably Moldovan character.
The ageing is serious. First 10 to 12 months in 225-litre oak barrels, then at least two more years in large Krasnodar oak casks. The result is a full, structured wine with aromas of blackberry, plum, chocolate, coffee beans and liquorice, powerful tannins and a long, refined finish. Serve it at 16 to 18 degrees with game, grilled red meat or aged cheeses — or save it for an evening when you take your time.
Why we chose Gitana
We are two cousins from Maastricht and our collection is all about discovery. No mass imports, only bottles we have tasted ourselves and that genuinely convinced us. A bottle of Gitana wine fits that perfectly: craftsmanship from a country hardly anyone has on their radar, made by a family that has been building its own story since the nineties. We import these wines directly, so you can discover them without detours.
Ready to taste?
Moldovan wine surprises nearly everyone who tries it for the first time, and Gitana is the perfect introduction. Explore our Moldovan wines, or go straight to the Gitana Saperavi and the Gitana Lupi Rezerva.